Blood, sweat and fears
Hiking off-trail in the Swartberg can sometimes be okay and sometimes extreme. I had my sight on the beautiful Kangoberg area for some time and worked out a probable achievable traverse route from Kruisrivier to Groenfontein (this is in the area between the Swartberg Pass and Calitzdorp). The best map and Google Earth images can’t show you everything, and leaves one with an adventure on hand. Potential participants were well aware of this.
Twelve brave souls turned up for the meet as we gathered at the Kruisrivier Guest Farm’s camping site on Friday afternoon. Derek Odendaal, Clive Louw, Ed Kay-Shuttleworth, Greg and Cheryl Devine, Maretha Alant, Werner Frei, Johan Huisamen, Elna van der Walt and guests Clifton and Annalet Donald, Mari Swart and Milo (see the note at the end of the report).
Saturday was a perfectly clear day and we set off from the camp site following the Kruisrivier valley into the Swartberg. After a few kilo’s of easy walking, we went off-trail and ascended the slopes up to a height of about 1050 m asl. Our traverse to the west followed this height (more or less) along a wide terrace on the mountain slopes. Kangoberg and some of the other peaks still towered almost 1000 m above us. The scenery was great.
The vegetation was still low and relatively open after the fire of about 2½ years ago, so we made good progress. Then we reached the first deep kloof to cross (there were actually two close to one another). It was steep down and up again, with thick vegetation, but not too bad after all. At the bottom of the first one, we crawled in underneath some bushes and trees to get some shade for our lunch break. It was quite hot by now, due to a berg wind.
We continued on our route amidst a rising temperature, so the odd shady spot was welcomed. At about 3 pm we arrived at the second deep kloof to be crossed. I knew beforehand this one was more than 100 m deep, very steep and could stop us from going further. We also needed the water which was flowing down there….. Werner and I first went down the steep slope to see if we could reach the bottom. I was relieved to see it was possible. But going up the opposite slope looked rather challenging, if possible. But I believed we could get up, without risking our lives.
Going down with a pack was difficult, rough, uncomfortable and hot. Most of us were bleeding somewhere when we reached the bottom – even Milo. But we got down safely and welcomed the shade and cool water! Our planned camping spot was now close by. But we still had to get out of the kloof and we were all tired by then. Going up was very steep, rough and slow, but we also survived that. Soon we arrived at our camping spot (with water close by) and could pitch our tents with a wonderful view of the Swartberg peaks. I was delighted that we could reach this spot and I celebrated it with some whisky – Bains Mountain whisky.
The next day was cloudy and grey – even misty at times. We continued along our traverse and I knew there were no more serious obstacles. Further on we just had to get down the mountain along an unknown ridge. For most of the way it was rather gradual, but the last 200 m descent was rough, steep and rocky. We were all glad when we reached the floor of the Groenfontein valley. The last few kilometers to where we left two vehicles on Friday, passed quickly.
I was fortunate that I had a group of tough hikers for this rough traverse. And I was very thankful that no-one got injured along the way. Above all: everybody enjoyed this “Derek Special”! What a group!
Milo:
Milo is a golden Labrador, owned by the people at Kruisfontein. He likes the campers and the food they give him. He also likes walking with people – but he didn’t know what he was in for when he joined our hike on Saturday morning! He cheerfully ran along, sniffing around and enjoying himself. Eventually we realised we will not get rid of him – even after Johan turned back late morning (as was his plan) and lured the dog along with him with a fair amount of biltong.
Eventually Milo did the entire traverse with us. He is a tough dog with tough paws and athletic abilities, although we had to assist him here and there going up the steep slopes. He loves swimming and polluted every stream we came across (because he always arrived first). He also bled after going through that rough kloof, and was very tired that evening. He eats everything, even egg shells, vegetables, chicken bryani, Post Toasties and dried fruit. Or did the exercise just made him that hungry? But he has good manners and was never a nuisance. No wonder his owner was very glad to see him again on Sunday afternoon. What a dog!
Derek Odendaal – meet leader