I could almost write a book about the extended effort to make this hike a reality. I had the idea of such a hike in my head for many years, and eventually put it on the meets program for May 2023. The planned 3-day route involved hiking through two adjacent private nature reserves in the red hills just west of De Rust in the Klein Karoo. The reserves are Tsumkwe and Lidiikwe. Between myself and Jacomi, we have family ties in both reserves, so getting permission was not difficult. The logistics was not so easy, but I had some goodwill from both ends.

As you will remember, 2023 was a very wet year with a lot of hikes being cancelled/postponed due to rain. My first scheduled Rooikoppe hike had to be cancelled due to flooding and impassable roads in the Klein Karoo. So I re-scheduled for late September. Just before the meet, weather forecasts looked grim and wet, so we cancelled again. The third effort was then scheduled for 5 to 7 April. Four days before the meet, it looked as though rain will also stop this one, but closer to the meet, it looked better and we committed. Fourteen of the 16 on my list were positive enough to drive to the Klein Karoo and make the best of it.

Derek & Jacomi Odendaal, Clive & Sandy Louw, Donovan & Samantha Kotze, Hugh Sussens, Maretha Alant, Werner Frei, Charles Smith, Saartjie vd Merwe, Andre du Plessis, Malcolm Rivett, Mari Swart

However, for the leader of the meet, another obstacle arose just 3 weeks before the hike. He developed a foot condition called Plantar fasciitis, making the bottom of the heel too sore to walk long distances. So Plan B was put into action, where Clive Louw was asked to lead the group along the planned route. He kindly agreed. I would then drive around to certain points and meet up with them where I could, also spending the nights with them.

The weather forecasts were still a bit uncertain, and I also had a Plan C for that, where the last day could be cut short in case of rain. In the end we had to adopt Plan C, but then on the second day, another challenge came to the front, involving the unsuitability of our second overnight spot (an “overhang”). Fortunately, the manager of Lidiikwe offered a very nice alternative, becoming Plan D (the family ties surely did the thing). They have a nice lapa in the reserve, with a number of huts, hot showers, firewood, indoor braai, gas and more. Plan D also involved fetching our cars from Tsumkwe reserve, with the added bonus of visiting Domain Doornkraal’s wine stall, right at the entrance to Lidiikwe. So we had everything for a lekker last night!

Here is Clive with the details of the hike: Derek had twice before attempted to do this Rooikoppe trip, but had been thwarted by heavy rains and flooding. This was to be our third time lucky with an improved weather forecast, but we still had a questionable weather outlook for our third (final) day. To guide us, Derek provided a Google Earth Pic with the proposed route drawn in. It worked quite well. However, as this pic is taken directly from above, it conceals the severity of the slopes. This proved quite challenging here and there.

Our first day started in Tsumkwe Private Nature Reserve, which is situated between Oudtshoorn and De Rust. From the start point the Rooikoppe can clearly be seen, primarily Enon conglomerate rock with an overdose of iron to give it the red tinge. Behind the Rooikoppe rises the Swartberg, which is very different by nature because of its predominant sandstone character.

The first leg was through to the first cliffs where there was evidence of earlier Bushman activity. We then contoured along the base of the impressive Rooikoppe cliffs. On the ascent we found a good lunch spot with views across the Rooikoppe and the vlakte below.

The rest of the day was through the more remote back table with more interesting rock formations. Since this whole area is part of a nature reserve, we were rewarded with views of the rare sable, gemsbok, giraffe and more. Our camp for the night was amongst the trees on the banks of the Kango River. During the abandoned first attempt, this river would have been impossible to cross because of the rains, but this time it was reduced to a small stream which is mainly fed by a spring. We enjoyed a pleasant braai for the night, and thankfully there was no rain at all.

The next day we crossed into the Lidiikwe Nature Reserve, and followed the way up the Brak River valley. The vegetation was more lush, and the rock formations impressive. A detour was taken to a large cave. There was an upper level to the cave, and a ladder had been provided to get there. Its purpose is a bit of a mystery as the floor is too bumpy for camping.

We were heading for another cave to sleep in that night, but we received a message from Derek that the proposed cave was actually not suitable for overnighting, and in addition it looked like a fair amount of rain was due the next day. We then were offered an opportunity to spend the night in Lidiikwe’s lapa, which is close to the end of our proposed 3-day trail.

There was plenty of time left to get to the Lapa. Some of the party chose to take an exit path, collect the cars and drive to the Lapa. The rest of the party chose to continue through, and cover most of the route that would have been done on the third day. On the way were interesting views of the red rock formations. We were able to confirm that the earlier cave campsite was not good.

At the Lapa we were able to get together, have a campfire and enjoy the luxuries available there (hot showers and beds).

So at last, third time lucky, and a medal to Derek for persevering.

Photos: Clive Louw & Jacomi Odendaal

Meet Leaders ~ Derek Odendaal & Clive Louw